Chinatown Walking Tour (Self Guided), San Francisco
San Francisco鈥檚 Chinatown is the oldest in North America and one of the largest Chinese communities outside Asia. Founded in 1848, it has played a central role in preserving Chinese heritage, including language, religion, and customs, for generations of immigrants in the United States. Over time, it has also become a leading tourist destination鈥攁ttracting more visitors annually than even the Golden Gate Bridge. What began as a small enclave for Chinese laborers in the mid-19th century has grown into a dense neighborhood full of shops, temples, restaurants, and landmarks. Despite its compact size, Chinatown maintains a strong cultural identity and vibrant community life.
Chinese immigrants, mostly from Guangdong Province, were drawn to San Francisco during the Gold Rush of the 1850s and later to work on the transcontinental railroad. Many settled near Portsmouth Square and along Dupont Street (now Grant Avenue), forming a close-knit community. As anti-Chinese sentiment grew in the West during the 1880s, the enclave became a refuge for newcomers. Today, Grant Avenue remains one of the district鈥檚 main streets and is marked by the Dragon Gate鈥攂uilt in 1970 in a traditional Chinese style with green tiled roofs and guardian lions.
Key sites include the Sing Chong Building, with its pagoda-style roof rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake, and Old St. Mary鈥檚 Cathedral, one of the city鈥檚 oldest Catholic churches. Waverly Place offers quieter charm with family associations and the historic Tin How Temple, dedicated to the sea goddess Mazu. Along Ross Alley, visitors can explore the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, where cookies are still folded by hand, and learn about the former Chinese Telephone Exchange, where operators manually connected calls in Chinese.
Portsmouth Square remains the heart of the neighborhood鈥擲an Francisco鈥檚 oldest public space鈥攚here locals gather for Tai Chi practice, Chinese chess, and socializing. Statues and memorials in the area honor figures such as Dr. Sun Yat-sen and Chinese-American war veterans, while nearby businesses serve both residents and tourists.
To experience this historic district and its cultural landmarks, take a self-guided walk through Chinatown. Bring a camera, curiosity, and appetite鈥攅ach corner in this part of the city holds a piece of San Francisco鈥檚 layered identity.
Chinese immigrants, mostly from Guangdong Province, were drawn to San Francisco during the Gold Rush of the 1850s and later to work on the transcontinental railroad. Many settled near Portsmouth Square and along Dupont Street (now Grant Avenue), forming a close-knit community. As anti-Chinese sentiment grew in the West during the 1880s, the enclave became a refuge for newcomers. Today, Grant Avenue remains one of the district鈥檚 main streets and is marked by the Dragon Gate鈥攂uilt in 1970 in a traditional Chinese style with green tiled roofs and guardian lions.
Key sites include the Sing Chong Building, with its pagoda-style roof rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake, and Old St. Mary鈥檚 Cathedral, one of the city鈥檚 oldest Catholic churches. Waverly Place offers quieter charm with family associations and the historic Tin How Temple, dedicated to the sea goddess Mazu. Along Ross Alley, visitors can explore the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, where cookies are still folded by hand, and learn about the former Chinese Telephone Exchange, where operators manually connected calls in Chinese.
Portsmouth Square remains the heart of the neighborhood鈥擲an Francisco鈥檚 oldest public space鈥攚here locals gather for Tai Chi practice, Chinese chess, and socializing. Statues and memorials in the area honor figures such as Dr. Sun Yat-sen and Chinese-American war veterans, while nearby businesses serve both residents and tourists.
To experience this historic district and its cultural landmarks, take a self-guided walk through Chinatown. Bring a camera, curiosity, and appetite鈥攅ach corner in this part of the city holds a piece of San Francisco鈥檚 layered identity.
How it works: Download the app "911爆料网: Walks in 1K+ Cities" from Apple App Store or Google Play Store to your mobile phone or tablet. The app turns your mobile device into a personal tour guide and its built-in GPS navigation functions guide you from one tour stop to next. The app works offline, so no data plan is needed when traveling abroad.
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Chinatown Walking Tour Map
Guide Name: Chinatown Walking Tour
Guide Location: USA » San Francisco (See other walking tours in San Francisco)
Guide Type: Self-guided Walking Tour (Sightseeing)
# of Attractions: 9
Tour Duration: 1 Hour(s)
Travel Distance: 0.9 Km or 0.6 Miles
Author: doris
Sight(s) Featured in This Guide:
Guide Location: USA » San Francisco (See other walking tours in San Francisco)
Guide Type: Self-guided Walking Tour (Sightseeing)
# of Attractions: 9
Tour Duration: 1 Hour(s)
Travel Distance: 0.9 Km or 0.6 Miles
Author: doris
Sight(s) Featured in This Guide:
- Chinatown Gate (Dragon's Gate)
- Old St. Mary's Cathedral and Square
- Sing Chong Building
- Waverly Place
- Tin How Temple
- Ross Alley
- Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory
- Old Chinese Telephone Exchange
- Portsmouth Square
1) Chinatown Gate (Dragon's Gate)
Facing south, as per the principles of Feng Shui, this large dragon-clad arch is a popular (yet somewhat dramatic) entry to San Francisco Chinatown. The gate, opened in 1970, was made from materials gifted by Taiwan, but the actual design came from Chinese-American architect Clayton Lee inspired by ceremonial entrances to Chinese villages. In keeping with tradition, whereby such gateways are often commissioned by the wealthy who wish to enhance their status by having their names inscribed on the gates, the Chinatown portal carries a four-character inscription that translates to "All under heaven is for the good of the people."
Among other notable features, it has two large guardian lions (or lion dogs) looking over the pedestrian entrances. The one on the west side is male, and that on the east is female. You can always tell which is which since the lioness holds a cub under her paw while the male holds a ball. Both the gate and the lions symbolize protection from evil spirits.
Beyond the gate, the pagoda-topped architecture was innovated by Chinatown merchants in the 1920s 鈥� a pioneering initiative to lure tourists with a distinctive modern look. Indeed, this had worked, as the dragon streetlights soon chased away the red-light-heyday shady ladies. Today, they light the way to the elegant shops where you can buy antiques, silks, teas, gems, and more.
Among other notable features, it has two large guardian lions (or lion dogs) looking over the pedestrian entrances. The one on the west side is male, and that on the east is female. You can always tell which is which since the lioness holds a cub under her paw while the male holds a ball. Both the gate and the lions symbolize protection from evil spirits.
Beyond the gate, the pagoda-topped architecture was innovated by Chinatown merchants in the 1920s 鈥� a pioneering initiative to lure tourists with a distinctive modern look. Indeed, this had worked, as the dragon streetlights soon chased away the red-light-heyday shady ladies. Today, they light the way to the elegant shops where you can buy antiques, silks, teas, gems, and more.
2) Old St. Mary's Cathedral and Square
A couple blocks past Chinatown Gate is Old Saint Mary's, San Francisco's first Catholic cathedral, which predates nearly everything around it. Owing to the shortage of suitable building materials in California, the bricks for the old church were imported in the 1850s from the East Coast, while the granite foundation stones came by boat from China. The clock tower bears the inscription, "Son, observe the time and fly from evil," said to have been directed at the brothels that stood across the street at the time it was built. As if by some miracle, the 1906 earthquake spared the church's walls and tower but destroyed a bordello, making room for Saint Mary's Square.
The church was rebuilt and began ministering to the local Chinese population, as it still does today. Just inside the main doorway behind the banks of pews, a fine photo display details the 1906 damage to the city and the church, while sculptures and stained glass windows run along the sides of the wall. Out of doors, the square shines a pink-granite-and-steel statue of Dr Sun Yat-sen, founder of the Chinese Republic in 1911, created by noted sculptor Benjamin Bufano. You'll also find a small park to sit for a bit and get your bearings while taking in fine views of the Financial District.
The church was rebuilt and began ministering to the local Chinese population, as it still does today. Just inside the main doorway behind the banks of pews, a fine photo display details the 1906 damage to the city and the church, while sculptures and stained glass windows run along the sides of the wall. Out of doors, the square shines a pink-granite-and-steel statue of Dr Sun Yat-sen, founder of the Chinese Republic in 1911, created by noted sculptor Benjamin Bufano. You'll also find a small park to sit for a bit and get your bearings while taking in fine views of the Financial District.
3) Sing Chong Building
After the devastating earthquake of 1906, San Francisco's city government smelled the opportunity to drive Chinatown to the fringes, planning to resettle the community to what is now the Bayview neighborhood. But the Chinese Family Associations and the Chinese Consulate refused to budge.
A group of Chinese merchants, including Mendocino-born Look Tin Eli, seized on the idea of hiring American (non-Chinese) architects and contractors to design and rebuild the neighborhood in Chinese-motif "Oriental" style. The plan was to increase the area's appeal as a tourist destination and cultural stronghold.
The result of that design strategy was the pagoda-topped buildings of the Sing Chong and Sing Fat bazaars. These were among the first "new Chinatown" to open and have since become landmark sites. Inspired by Sing Chong's standout look, many other buildings in the area began featuring similar architectural elements. One such was the Bank of America building at 701 Grant Avenue, first occupied by the Nanking Fook Wo Inc., which got decorated in traditional dragon motifs.
A group of Chinese merchants, including Mendocino-born Look Tin Eli, seized on the idea of hiring American (non-Chinese) architects and contractors to design and rebuild the neighborhood in Chinese-motif "Oriental" style. The plan was to increase the area's appeal as a tourist destination and cultural stronghold.
The result of that design strategy was the pagoda-topped buildings of the Sing Chong and Sing Fat bazaars. These were among the first "new Chinatown" to open and have since become landmark sites. Inspired by Sing Chong's standout look, many other buildings in the area began featuring similar architectural elements. One such was the Bank of America building at 701 Grant Avenue, first occupied by the Nanking Fook Wo Inc., which got decorated in traditional dragon motifs.
4) Waverly Place
Waverly Place is not just a street鈥攊t鈥檚 a narrow, two-block portal into another rhythm of life. Tucked between Grant and Stockton, this colorful alley winds quietly through Chinatown like a whispered secret passed between generations. At first glance, its name may evoke Victorian gentility, but don鈥檛 be fooled; Waverly Place wears red lanterns, jade balconies, and incense smoke like a daily uniform.
Dubbed the 鈥淪treet of Painted Balconies,鈥� it鈥檚 easy to see why: cast-iron railings, pastel facades, and fluttering laundry seem to compete with each other for charm. Look up, and you might spot Taoist temples above beauty salons; look down, and you鈥檒l find brass nameplates marking tongs鈥攈istorical Chinese family associations with their own gripping tales. It's a street where history isn鈥檛 just preserved鈥攊t鈥檚 practiced.
Waverly has also flirted with fame. It made a cameo in Amy Tan鈥檚 The Joy Luck Club and has long inspired photographers, filmmakers, and anyone with a weakness for poetic backdrops. The architecture is a dense mix of east-meets-west improvisation: think red columns, curved eaves, and a quiet resilience against modern glass and steel. Even the mailboxes have personality.
Locals pass through like it鈥檚 nothing, but linger a while and you鈥檒l catch the layered sounds鈥攕oft Cantonese chatter, temple bells, the snap of mahjong tiles. Waverly Place doesn鈥檛 shout for attention. It just waits for you to notice it, which, in a city full of distractions, is its own kind of magic.
Dubbed the 鈥淪treet of Painted Balconies,鈥� it鈥檚 easy to see why: cast-iron railings, pastel facades, and fluttering laundry seem to compete with each other for charm. Look up, and you might spot Taoist temples above beauty salons; look down, and you鈥檒l find brass nameplates marking tongs鈥攈istorical Chinese family associations with their own gripping tales. It's a street where history isn鈥檛 just preserved鈥攊t鈥檚 practiced.
Waverly has also flirted with fame. It made a cameo in Amy Tan鈥檚 The Joy Luck Club and has long inspired photographers, filmmakers, and anyone with a weakness for poetic backdrops. The architecture is a dense mix of east-meets-west improvisation: think red columns, curved eaves, and a quiet resilience against modern glass and steel. Even the mailboxes have personality.
Locals pass through like it鈥檚 nothing, but linger a while and you鈥檒l catch the layered sounds鈥攕oft Cantonese chatter, temple bells, the snap of mahjong tiles. Waverly Place doesn鈥檛 shout for attention. It just waits for you to notice it, which, in a city full of distractions, is its own kind of magic.
5) Tin How Temple
Get a peek into the cultural and spiritual aspect of the Far East by visiting the unusual Tin How Temple 鈥� the longest-operating Chinese temple in San Francisco and the entire U.S., which fittingly honors of one of the most popular Chinese deities, Mazu 鈥� popularly known as Tin How (Tien Hau), Queen of Heaven and Goddess of Seven Seas, said to have powers to protect those traveling long distances.
The temple dates back to the mid-19th century when it was founded by early Cantonese settlers 鈥� among the first immigrants to the country. Situated at the top of three steep, wooden flights of stairs, not much has changed here with the passage of time. One can still see old women preparing offerings for the deities, smell the sweet burning of incense and tune into the quiet chants meant to appease the Buddhist deities. Sitting gracefully in the center of it all is Tin How with her assistants by her side.
Although rather small, the temple is generously daubed in gold, vermilion, and hundreds of lanterns and tassels suspended from the ceiling, which are tied by devotees. Some of the items scattered throughout are over a century old. Note also the pyramids of oranges, considered lucky as the Cantonese pronunciation of "orange" sounds similar to the word for wealth. Although the temple doesn't charge admission, it's respectful to leave a small donation and to refrain from using cameras inside.
The temple dates back to the mid-19th century when it was founded by early Cantonese settlers 鈥� among the first immigrants to the country. Situated at the top of three steep, wooden flights of stairs, not much has changed here with the passage of time. One can still see old women preparing offerings for the deities, smell the sweet burning of incense and tune into the quiet chants meant to appease the Buddhist deities. Sitting gracefully in the center of it all is Tin How with her assistants by her side.
Although rather small, the temple is generously daubed in gold, vermilion, and hundreds of lanterns and tassels suspended from the ceiling, which are tied by devotees. Some of the items scattered throughout are over a century old. Note also the pyramids of oranges, considered lucky as the Cantonese pronunciation of "orange" sounds similar to the word for wealth. Although the temple doesn't charge admission, it's respectful to leave a small donation and to refrain from using cameras inside.
6) Ross Alley
Ross Alley is one of the oldest alleys in Chinatown, stretching a single block between Jackson and Washington Streets. Originally known for its association with gambling parlors and brothels in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it has since transformed into a quieter pedestrian passage with historic significance. The alley retains much of its original layout and architecture, with narrow brick buildings and overhead balconies that reflect the layered history of the neighborhood.
A notable landmark along Ross Alley is the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, established in 1962. Visitors can observe the traditional method of hand-folding fortune cookies and even purchase custom messages. The factory remains one of the few places where this craft is still practiced in a small, open workspace, attracting both tourists and locals interested in witnessing a unique part of culinary tradition.
Ross Alley has also gained recognition as a film location, having appeared in major productions such as Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, Big Trouble in Little China, and The Karate Kid Part II. Its narrow layout, atmospheric lighting, and authentic surroundings have made it a frequent choice for capturing scenes set in Chinatown.
Today, the alley serves as a quiet walking route with subtle historical markers and occasional art installations. While less commercial than surrounding streets, it offers a glimpse into the everyday environment of Chinatown, where traces of past and present continue to coexist.
A notable landmark along Ross Alley is the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, established in 1962. Visitors can observe the traditional method of hand-folding fortune cookies and even purchase custom messages. The factory remains one of the few places where this craft is still practiced in a small, open workspace, attracting both tourists and locals interested in witnessing a unique part of culinary tradition.
Ross Alley has also gained recognition as a film location, having appeared in major productions such as Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, Big Trouble in Little China, and The Karate Kid Part II. Its narrow layout, atmospheric lighting, and authentic surroundings have made it a frequent choice for capturing scenes set in Chinatown.
Today, the alley serves as a quiet walking route with subtle historical markers and occasional art installations. While less commercial than surrounding streets, it offers a glimpse into the everyday environment of Chinatown, where traces of past and present continue to coexist.
7) Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory
Where else in the state of California, let alone the rest of the U.S., will you find a place that makes fortune cookies by hand in a family-owned bakery? Located in Chinatown, past the clothing shops, the little markets, the knick-knack, and antique shops, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie factory is as good as it gets.
To begin with, you'll have never seen so many fortune cookies in your life! They have chocolate-dipped, sprinkled, giant, and unfolded varieties, and you can even create your own personalized messages to be placed within. You can also see the fresh cookies being made and folded in front of you by hand, at a rate of 20,000 a day, just as they were in 1909, when they were invented for San Francisco's Japanese Tea Garden (other places churn hundreds of thousands out a day, mechanically).
Fresh and warm fortune cookies beat every other fortune cookie you've had before. The ones made here are thin enough that they give a good crisp bite, but also thick enough that they don't just shatter (unlike the thick and crunchy kinds served at restaurants). Plus, each bag and container is insanely cheap for its worth.
To begin with, you'll have never seen so many fortune cookies in your life! They have chocolate-dipped, sprinkled, giant, and unfolded varieties, and you can even create your own personalized messages to be placed within. You can also see the fresh cookies being made and folded in front of you by hand, at a rate of 20,000 a day, just as they were in 1909, when they were invented for San Francisco's Japanese Tea Garden (other places churn hundreds of thousands out a day, mechanically).
Fresh and warm fortune cookies beat every other fortune cookie you've had before. The ones made here are thin enough that they give a good crisp bite, but also thick enough that they don't just shatter (unlike the thick and crunchy kinds served at restaurants). Plus, each bag and container is insanely cheap for its worth.
8) Old Chinese Telephone Exchange
The East West Bank in San Francisco's Chinatown is not just a modern banking establishment; it is also a living testament to the neighborhood's rich history. Housed within a distinctive red and green pagoda-style building on Washington Street, this edifice holds the memories of a bygone era when it served as the Chinese Telephone Exchange.
Telephone service in Chinatown started in 1887, connecting the neighborhood to the city. The Chinese Telephone Exchange began in 1901, initially run by men. After the 1906 earthquake, it became an all-female workforce, playing a vital role in the community.
In Chinatown, callers preferred using names instead of phone numbers. This custom was rooted in the belief that using numbers was impolite. To adapt, operators memorized details of over 1,500 residents, including names, addresses, workplaces, and phone numbers. This skill enabled smooth communication and distinction among people with the same name.
The women at the exchange were skilled in English and various Chinese dialects spoken in Chinatown. Their language abilities bridged gaps and connected residents and businesses in the area. The exchange also functioned as a practical employment office, linking businesses with suitable job candidates based on their backgrounds.
Before serving as a telephone exchange, the building was home to the California Star, San Francisco's first newspaper. Founded by Sam Brannan, an entrepreneur linked to the California Gold Rush, the paper was crucial in sharing information with the city's residents, including the official news of San Francisco's name change from Yerba Buena to its current title in January 1847.
Telephone service in Chinatown started in 1887, connecting the neighborhood to the city. The Chinese Telephone Exchange began in 1901, initially run by men. After the 1906 earthquake, it became an all-female workforce, playing a vital role in the community.
In Chinatown, callers preferred using names instead of phone numbers. This custom was rooted in the belief that using numbers was impolite. To adapt, operators memorized details of over 1,500 residents, including names, addresses, workplaces, and phone numbers. This skill enabled smooth communication and distinction among people with the same name.
The women at the exchange were skilled in English and various Chinese dialects spoken in Chinatown. Their language abilities bridged gaps and connected residents and businesses in the area. The exchange also functioned as a practical employment office, linking businesses with suitable job candidates based on their backgrounds.
Before serving as a telephone exchange, the building was home to the California Star, San Francisco's first newspaper. Founded by Sam Brannan, an entrepreneur linked to the California Gold Rush, the paper was crucial in sharing information with the city's residents, including the official news of San Francisco's name change from Yerba Buena to its current title in January 1847.
9) Portsmouth Square
San Francisco's first real city center, Portsmouth Square was born in the mid-1800s and now, to all intents and purposes, serves as Chinatown's living room/social club. When Captain John B. Montgomery came ashore in 1846 to seize the land 鈥� then called Yerba Buena 鈥� for the U.S., he raised his flag here and named the square after his warship; the spot where he first raised the Stars and Stripes is marked by the one often flying in the square today. Two years later, in 1848, the cry of "Gold! Gold at the American River!" here sent property prices and development skyrocketing as countless prospectors and entrepreneurs poured in.
The plaza is primarily worth visiting to simply absorb everyday life, with spirited games of Mahjong and Chinese Checkers played atop makeshift tables, and neighborhood children letting off steam in the playground (on weekends there can be classical music played on one-string violins, dances, and singing performances). A graceful addition is the Goddess of Democracy, a bronze replica of the statue made by protesters in Tiananmen Square, while nearby stands a small red pagoda-like structure set on the original site of the California Star newspaper's office, which carried the news of the earliest ore discoveries, and thus played a major role in the Gold Rush.
All in all, Portsmouth Square is a lively and important part of this great neighborhood, and an interesting piece of San Francisco's colorful heritage. For revisiting history, resting your feet, getting a snack or doing some light shopping, it is surely a sight to see.
The plaza is primarily worth visiting to simply absorb everyday life, with spirited games of Mahjong and Chinese Checkers played atop makeshift tables, and neighborhood children letting off steam in the playground (on weekends there can be classical music played on one-string violins, dances, and singing performances). A graceful addition is the Goddess of Democracy, a bronze replica of the statue made by protesters in Tiananmen Square, while nearby stands a small red pagoda-like structure set on the original site of the California Star newspaper's office, which carried the news of the earliest ore discoveries, and thus played a major role in the Gold Rush.
All in all, Portsmouth Square is a lively and important part of this great neighborhood, and an interesting piece of San Francisco's colorful heritage. For revisiting history, resting your feet, getting a snack or doing some light shopping, it is surely a sight to see.
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